Roped up, shoes on, focused. I gaze up at the route and rehearse the moves in my head. I take off up the reachy face moves determined not to blow it with my shitty foot work. I get through the smeary feet and small crimps to a no hands rest under the roof and am glad for the rest (even if it is after just one bolt). The start was tougher than it had been the first time and I realize I may be more tired than I had let myself believe. I tell Nicola this and she tells me to giver! I dive in to the steep terrain-clip-jug-jug-pinch-sloper-heal........big move-crimp-jugs-clip-shake out. I think to myself that went far better than I expected, a few more big moves and I'm looking up at the final dead-point to a sloper and horizontal jugs to the chain. I collect my focus, shake, chalk, shake, chalk, chalk, chalk, chalk, chalk (Nicola yells at me to stop spraying her with chalk).......crimp-sloper-crimp-sloper-foot smear high left foot, launch up and right. I hit the sloper, damn I'm gonna stick this, cool I'm gonna send this route........BLAMO.......nope I guess I'll just bleed on it today!
cheers,
Nick





